Guiding, Teaching, Climbing, Learning

May 5th- multipitch climbing on the Red Wall

Today was the annual Smith Rock Spring Thing. A clean up and trail maintenance day where volunteers work with park rangers to build steps, fix trails, and do landscaping intended to stop some of the erosion that plagues this dusty, dry park. Being a big bus of bad people, we chose to skip this and go multi pitch climbing instead. These students have poured time and money into this program, they don’t need to take a day out of their valuable “class time ” to build steps. We headed to the Red Wall as a big group to climb two classics, Super Slab and Moscow. These are both 3-4 pitch multi pitches around the 5.6-5.7 grade with lots of gear anchor building and some investing route finding. Unfortunately we got completely scooped by the diligent public on Super Slab so we all climbed Moscow, with my three teams of two cragging at the base to give our other three teams a chance to get ahead on the route. We climbed a splitter 5.9 crack first pinned by Chouinard in the 60’s and two 5.10b sport routes that someone had spread butter on. Good times though! We finally got in line on Moscow and took quite a while climbing this shady, windy and cold line. everyone built solid anchors, climbed solidly and showed some good judgement. The line had some great hand to fist corner crack climbing and some tricky anchor arrangements. The students are picking up their game….


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